Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Tuesday 26th Feb. MS Trollfjord, Norway

Seriously big storm last evening....   The crew were very anxious to have dinner over and crockery packed away early..... had obviously been forewarned!

Having had a couple of sneaky drinks earlier in the evening, we were actually ready for bed by about 9.30pm;  not a lot happening anywhere of course.

Tucked up, reading on my wee iPad, when all hell broke loose.  Really difficult to actually stay on the bed, but did manage, and also managed to finally go to sleep, in spite of there being something clattering rather ominously against the outside wall of our cabin. 

Calm this morning, but seriously rotten weather....   Very low cloud, rain, and almost zero visibility, and we're sailing down the magical Norwegian Coast.   What a shame!

Everyone sitting in the lounge, almost the entire group involved in their computers or iPads, not even much conversation except to complain about the slow internet.  Endless cups of bad coffee.......

We cross the Arctic Circle this morning, on the way down again, apparently there was some sort of "ceremony" on the top deck, in the freezing conditions, which involved drinking cod liver oil, and being presented with a spoon.   We missed that!!!   


Monday, February 25, 2013

Drinks on board!

All the Aussies on board have had to invent devious ways to have a drink, without huddling in our wee cabins....
They sell very bad coffee in take-away paper cups, which can be washed out, and, with their lids on, can comfortably conceal that the contents is now red or white wine..   Pepsi and ice in a takeaway container also makes way for a generous splash of Bundy....  Feel like naughty school kids....

Monday 25th, February, Norway... Somewhere.....

Sunday 24th....
This morning at about 1.45am...  Yes a.m.....  We gathered outside our lovely warm ship, and we were taken down to put our SERIOUS outdoor gear on, prior to our "search for the Lights" tour.   Finally dressed in our inter-stellar explorer clothing, we were ushered outside to our "steeds" (flash snow-mobiles).
All lined up in groups of 5 or 6 per line, engines quietly turning over, Leiths being in Line 2, expectantly awaiting the next instructions..... 
Suddenly, one of the steeds flashed forward at full speed, obviously out of control;  crashed square-on into the snow mobile which was stationary in front.  Bodies and machines everywhere.  Very ungraciously, we shrieked - it was like something out of a Monty Python sketch.  Anyway, all was okay, nobody injured, but the driver was consigned to the pillion seat, never to be allowed to drive this beast again.  (These were two 'girls' on our  tour).    
So, off we ventured into the darkness....  
Absolutely bloody freezing, sleet, snow, wind, total darkness....   WTF are we doing out here?
Are we having fun yet???    
With a stop or two along the way, god only knows what for, this continued for an hour or so.
Then, just in front of us there was Episode 2 of the night's entertainment......  Same 2 girls, only this time, with the different driver, they had overturned the sled into a ditch, and once again there were bodies and machines all over the place!!
Again nobody was hurt ( the snow was about half a meter deep), and it kept us amused for a while at the time, and since then, of course.
This time they were BOTH sacked! And had to spend the rest of the 'tour' time in the accompanying bus!  Lucky them!!
The weather continued to be appalling, the visibility nil, and the whole point of the exercise was lost. Our progress was so slow we were going to miss our reccy with the ship, so we turned around and went back to our departure point.
By this stage, the sleet was penetrating my helmet, and my hat;  my feet had lost all feeling, and I was just huddled into Arthur's back, eyes tightly closed, determined to just SURVIVE until this ordeal ended.  It did.     They had cut it so short, they had brought buses to pick us up out in the boondocks, and we just abandoned our snow sleds and climbed on board....
This experience was SO bad, it eclipsed even the Snow Hotel.......
Got into bed about 4.30am.....  Woke up with feet still frozen 5 hours later!
The tour people really should have called the whole thing off, but they would've had to refund thousands of dollars, and they weren't too keen on doing that I reckon!
Very s-l-o-w day....  Afternoon nap which turned into nearly 3 hours.  I deserved it.......
Some folk waited up and went ashore to a service at midnight in a Church.     Not this little black duck!  Tucked up in my little doona.

Monday 25th, Norway.....  Somewhere.
Little excursion this morning for a couple of hours, on and off some small islands along the coast, both by bus and ferry.
Weather continues to be appalling.  Very disappointing for sightseeing, as the coast is stunning.

















Saturday, February 23, 2013

Saturday 23rd February. MS Trollfjord

Friday 22nd Feb. Saariselka, Finland.
Arrived at our hotel late afternoon, in time to visit the local Museum.  Saw a 10 minute film on various displays by the evasive Northern Lights....  At least now we can say we've seen them!

The large frozen river behind the hotel has some amazingly treacherous spots appearing in it - enormous chunks of ice have been disloged and stick up at alarming angles, revealing large sections of the river ice have collapsed in on themselves, in turn revealing the fast-running stream beneath.  Not good to be taking a short cut on the way home methinks!!

Speaking of short cuts, almost every one of us has at some point, decided to try taking a short cut, off the well worn path in the snow, and the result has invariably been finding ourselves thigh deep in powder snow, and having great difficulty extracting ourselves!!!  Much hilarity, and floundering about before we regain our feet.  SO funny....

Nice friendly little hotel, cosy little bar, which was fairly rocking by dinner time.  Fish for a change(!) for dinner, and the conversation was all about how "tonight's the night".....

The evening sky was VERY cloudy, with not a star in sight, so Arch and Annie went to bed...  Several others of the group left the hotel at various stages to seek the best viewing area.....  Anyway, we were woken up at about midnight by some of the good folk returning home.  So, Arch sat looking out our window for quite some time, convinced that HE would be the one to conjure up the lights.  After a while, sure that he could see the glow in the distance, he roused me from bed, and I reluctantly got the whole lot of outdoor gear on, and followed him downstairs and outside, along with one other fellow traveller...   Some little while after we left the hotel, we became aware that our room was locked, and we couldn't regain access.  Happily the girl from reception was still there, and she gave Arthur a replacement key.  After about 20 minutes staring into the abyss, we concluded there were not going to be any Northern Lights, and tried to return to the hotel..   Front door locked.....  Damn, what now???  Three of us standing about wondering what we could possibly do to attract attention, without screaming for help, when said Receptionist drove around the corner on her way home....  Arch ran into the path of the car, and prevailed upon her to show us how to gain entry into the hotel, which she did....  Happy ending, but we were a bit shocked at being locked outside in the middle of the night, when the temperature was about -12 degrees!!!

Saturday Feb. 23rd

Early departure, heading off to Norway, and to catch our ship..

Very small sign on the side of the road announcing that we'd crossed into Norway, but amazingly, the scenery changed immediately - it was bizarre.

Going from quite thick low-lying woodlands in Finland/Lapland into totally different terrain in Norway.  Almost no trees, and very undulating landscape.  No explanation yet, but will enquire.    Strange indeed.

Snowed a lot of the time on the drive North, and the sky is not indicative of the 'special sighting', yet again.

Boarded our ship, the MS Trollfjord, in Kirkenes,  (very close to the border with Russia) at about lunch time.  Huge buffet lunch on offer, followed by - not much......  Not a lot of strolling on deck in this weather, so sat about, had a snooze, and passed the hours until our late sitting of dinner - 8.30pm.   Not much activity at the bars on this ship, wine is about $25 per GLASS, so we're not going to pay that!  Most of our group has brought on board plenty of alcohol, but you cannot bring it into the lounges at all.  However, we bought a large Pepsi and Ice, and quietly poured some Bundy I had decanted into a little bottle, into it....   That was very easy and very nice.  But, not quite the same as gathering around a bar and having a drink.   There will be no drunkenness on this voyage!!!

Right now it's about 11pm, and I'm trying to stay awake.....   We're heading off into the wilds of Norway at about 1.30am tomorrow, riding snow-mobiles again;  it seemed like a really good idea at the time of booking, but not too sure now!!!  Sky still very cloudy and chances of seeing the Aurora are pretty much nil.  However, off we'll go.

Will tell more later.....






Friday, February 22, 2013

Thursday Feb. 21st. to Saariselka, Lapland

This morning we spent about three hours hurtling around the forest on a dog sled....   Amazing...   Again......
Six gorgeous huskies, jumping out of their skins, SO anxious to rush off, and ours were so well behaved we couldn't believe it.   Some others had dogs who took it in turn fighting with each other along the way, or attempting on-the-run sex!!!!   Arthur and I took turns to drive the sled, and drove off in the usual convoy, in single file.  Each dog must have had at least 2 craps along the way, always on the run of course, and the stink of dog poo was ever-present - considering how many dog sleds there were!  They could also pee on the run, and they would grab mouths-full of snow from the banks along the way, for a drink..
Hand signals from the leader were passed along the way, i.e. "slow down" and "stop".  The dogs will simply keep going they're so keen to run, so you have to put on the brakes - hard.....  We did have one hilarious moment....  The wife of the couple was to take turns to be the driver, with her husband sitting in the sled, she wasn't concentrating too well, lost her balance, the dogs and sled took off at 100 miles per hour, with hubby on board.  He thought his wife was being a little erratic, and wasn't aware that he was "alone" until one of the guides hurtled past him in a snow mobile, and pulled in front of the dogs to stop the sled.  What a scream...  I haven't been able to stop smiling about it since, particularly since nobody was hurt, and the participants also thought it hilarious!!  God knows how far the sled and dogs would have gone if they hadn't been stopped!
It was so serene driving through the snow, so quiet, with only the noise of the doggies and the swish of the sled skis to break the silence.  Truly unforgettable...   We stopped at a snow-covered tee-pee for a lovely lunch of salmon (always salmon up here - or reindeer) soup and bread, sitting around an open fire.  Hot juice to drink and hot tea.    Such nice people looking after us, and we all had a lovely day.  To top the day off, for about the last 10 minutes of the dog sled ride, it began snowing, and we finished the day, actually standing in the gently falling snow for 15 minutes or so - for this Southerner, it was pure magic.  Our Parkas, gloves, hats and boots are so brilliant, it was not at all cold, and we just sucked it up!!!!

Shortish drive from there to our next stop, which was Saariselka.  Checked into another in the chain of "Santa's Hotel".  They're VERY comfortable, and our room had it's own sauna and drying cabinet, so did all the washing....
This is one of the major Ski Resorts in this neck-o-the-woods, and is truly a very pretty town.  Beautiful hotels and Apartments, all looking like a scene from a movie..  Piles of snow everywhere, and it snowed again this afternoon.  
We had a few drinks with some of the mob, and then enjoyed an 'average' meal across the road.
Another drink or two saw us head off to bed at about 10pm. 

Friday 22nd, Saariselka.
We had checked the sky on our way home and there was thick cloud, couldn't see any stars...
We were horrified to note that this morning some of the more diligent girls had ventured outside at about 11pm and saw THE Lights.....
Maybe tonight....  We have vowed not to sleep before midnight.......
Heading to Inari, Finland's Sami (Indiginous people) capital.





Thursday, February 21, 2013

Spectacular scenery - Finland 2013


Endless Road - amazing scenery



Houses and "stuff" almost drowning in powder snow,



Animal enclosure



The Glass Igloo Village


Our front door!



View from our bed....


En route to breakfast...


Sunset....
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Wednesday 20th Feb. Rovaniemi to Kakslauttanen Lapland

Early bus ride from Rovaniemi - heading north, deeper into Lapland.
It was again an absolutely stunning drive - about three hours, and Arthur and I sat up in the front seats behind the driver - prime viewing.  Wow.  Again, mind blowing scenery.  Continuous forest, dropping with their snowy finery frozen lakes, tiny cottages and big houses, all struggling to keep their heads above the powder snow which is VERY deep.  Absolutely unforgettable.
The gang on the tour are a pretty convivial lot - seem mostly to be from Sydney and a few less from Melbourne (Victoria).  Nobody from anywhere else in Oz, so a nice little lot.   Very interesting catching up with their life stories over a couple of glasses of something.  Some have many (5) marriages, some are married before (new) couples, and then there are old farts like Arch and myself.

Had a couple of hours of quiet time this afternoon - Arch snoozing, and me reading a book.  Good to just chill for a while.

We stayed in gorgeous little glass Igloos, set in the middle of a snow field.  Very pretty, and so warm and cosy.  The idea was that we could lie in our beds (which could be elevated) and watch the Northern Lights without having to go out into the cold night.  Sadly however, it was a cloudy night, so no lights to be seen, but it was still lovely being able to look up into the sky from our bed.

We had to walk about 10-15 minutes to a central building for dinner, all the path was lit by cute little lights, and there was a well-marked path through the very deep snow.  Seems to weird putting ALL our outside gear on to go out to dinner, but you wouldn't dare leave home without it - even for 5 minutes.

Dinner was okay, and just when we were winding down, there appeared a tranny, doing her mime act, very hilarious, and such a bad mime..  Next was a similar "lady" - this time Asian, and again doing a really bad mime act.  She went off, and was instantly back in a gorgeous slinky glittery bikini - Omigod....  Very overweight, and with a round fat belly.  Played sexy with Arthur, and he almost fainted.....

No internet, and no television, so no contact with the outside world.  BUT, there in the far-flung outpost, mobile phone signal was crystal clear, and perfect.  Amazing to think that when we're in down-town Tocumwal, we have to find a particular tree, and stand on our heads for 5 minutes, and then, if we're in luck, we can get a weak Telstra signal.    WTF?????

Slept brilliantly - seem to have our body clocks in tune......





Tuesday 19th February, Rovaniemi.

We were taken out to "Santa's Village", which is right on the Arctic Circle, where Lapland begins - although no different from Finland really...
Lots of gorgeous deeply snow-covered buildings clustered about, and of course a Post Office.  So, we left all the important addresses with Santa, and several happy little munchkins should get a surprise letter from the REAL Santa, in Lapland, at christmas time this year.  Yee haa..
Went back to our hotel, skipped lunch, and took a walk along the amazing frozen river in town - lots of folk going around town on their cross-country skis, and even saw one amazing device, a thing which looked like a zimmer frame, incorporating a shopping bag, on skis.....  Brilliant..
Returned to the appointed place to get kitted out in serious Arctic gear, in preparation for our Snowmobile expedition.
This was an amazing experience...   About 20 of us (2 per snowmobile) headed off in convoy, firstly driving along the frozen river for a few kms. then we headed off into the forest.   A-M-A-Z-I-N-G.
Truly stunning.  Virgin snow surrounding pine trees positively groaning under the weight of the accumulated snow, and deciduous trees often appeared to be dripping in diamonds on their small twigs.  When we began it was about -10 degrees, but sunny and very comfortable.  Quite magical.
By the time we'd finished at about 4.30pm we were frozen to the bone, but had had a spectacular day.
Went upstairs to our room and had a couple of Bundies before we left our lovely warm accommodation to have dinner at The Ice Hotel......  OMIGOD...   The entire place was made of ice, walls, floors, ceilings, dinner table, benches on which we sat ('warmed' by a deer skin!), everything in fact was ice.  There were slabs of wood on the ice, onto which our hot food was placed.  The cutlery on the table was freezing, the food was soon freezing, there was no alcohol to ease the pain, and in short, it was such a miserable occasion, for everyone, that I don't think it's going to be included in the tour ever again!!!
We sat at dinner with our entire wardrobe of outdoor clothing on, including hats - Could not wait for it to end.  Bonus....  Desert was Ice Cream!!!!   Don't think so!!!!!
Two of the seemingly sane members of the group actually decided to sleep at the "hotel" for the night...   They survived, but I couldn't stop thinking of them and how they were going..
We fell into bed by about 9.30, stone cold sober, and too shattered to even be bothered to go out to look for the Lights.   Apparently there was a faint glimmer, but we didn't miss much....
Will add some photo's to the next post, but for now, have to go out........



Monday 18th February, Helsinki to Rovaniemi

Boarded the train early in the morning for our trip north.    This was truly amazing.  Kilometre after kilometre of snow-covered landscape, and trees groaning and bending under the accumulated weight.

Lots of very small villages dotted along the way, and some quite large towns.  Wondering what these folk do???  All villages look well kept, neat, and, well, Finnish!!!  Very few animals to be seen, either there are none, or they are housed in barns....   Some poor horses however seemed to be standing around, rather bored, in their small pens, ankle deep in snow...  Not a lot of grazing to be had, but at least they did have coats on.   Still, it didn't look like fun.

Long train ride - TEN HOURS in all, so lots of wandering around being done by small groups and individuals, keen to become acquainted.  Arch and I couldn't be bothered, so just sat down, entertaining ourselves.  We had a few books to read, and Arthur played his games on my iPad, until he found the Sudoku too hard!

Sad little "dining" car on the train, bought a dry old muffin and a Pepsi, and that was lunch.......

As we approached the 'six hours on the train' time, the sky, having been very thick cloud, cleared, and a gorgeous blue sky ensured the low sun made everything golden.  Really beautiful.

Finally the sun set of course, and we finished the trip in darkness.

This was a brilliant trip, but we think we can now cross a "ten hours on a train" item off our Bucket List....

Arrived at about 8.30pm.  And checked into "Santa's Hotel".    Very nice...  However, our body clocks are still a bit haywire, so sleeping was not brilliant......

Sunday, February 17, 2013

Sunday 17th February, Helsinki

Good, uneventful flight on Singapore Airlines - stopped over in Singapore, had a very welcome hot shower and not much else.  Had too much food on the way over and no sleep!

Almost catatonic by the time we re-boarded, bound for London - by this time it was about 2am Melbourne time.  Yay - no sooner had we levelled off, than more food was offered.

One cocktail, one glass of champagne and two sleeping pills were the "food" of choice for me.

Woke some hours later to enjoy the special atmosphere - the "dawn chorus" I called it,  which can only be had when sharing a "bedroom" with about 40 total strangers, clearing the accumulated mucous from their wee passages!!!  Gross.....

More food, and an uneventful flight into London.

I removed an unopened botttle of water from the plane, on the assumption that as it had been procured from a very secure environment (an aeroplane), and was only being taken to a transit lounge at Heathrow, that all would be well!!!  How wrong you can be!!!  A very serious pain-in-the-arse Brit sheila(!) decided that as I had some 'contraband' in my luggage (said water), that she would empty everything I had in my hand-luggage, and inspect it closely!!!!  WTF?????  Honestly, I wanted to punch her, but Arthur restrained me....  I have to say that Britain is now even more paranoid than the Americans, and that's saying something!!!!    I was obliged to have a full body scan because there was some metal on my bra straps......  Jesus H. Christ.......

Oh, and when my Vanity Case arrived on the luggage carousel, it had been literally ripped open - zippers ruined - and contents everywhere - padlocks still hanging from the dead zippers!!!  More paranoid Brits is our guess!!! 

Finally arrived in Helsinki at lunch time on Saturday.  It was gorgeous to see the entire countryside covered with snow, and the pine trees dripping with snow as well.  As someone who has spent a total of three week-ends in the snow in my entire life, this was pretty spectacular.

Hotel okay, but really in need of a couple of million dollars (or more) to upgrade it a bit.  Great position though, and close to everything.

Struggled out this morning to do a sightseeing tour for a couple of hours with a motley crew from all over the place, but very few English speakers it seemed.

There is snow everywhere, several feet deep in most places, and it was brilliant.  There are parks all over Helsinki and not a blade of grass to be seen, which is amazing.  Many small harbours too, and most frozen over.  We even saw two people sitting out there fishing in holes in the ice - have really only seen that on the television before, and not sure whether to believe it or not!!  But, it was for real!

Very overcast day, but no wind.  About -2 degrees or colder all day, and very cold walking about.  Glad I bought my gorgeous boots in Melbourne, nothing like them here, although the shops are dripping with winter clothes - mostly on special as the Winter is coming to an end soon!

We came across some very enterprising (insane?) folk in several different groups in parks around the city, cooking food - in the open - no shelter at all - over small gas flames!!  Things like curries etc, which the locals queued up enthusiastically to purchase.  Two girls were cutting up whole fresh pineapples, with the machines which peel and core them, then cutting them up into small pieces, putting them in a container with some sort of cream, and selling to happy consumers.  They both only had thin rubber gloves on their hands, and must have been absolutely freezing, but seemed to be very happy chappies.  They MUST be mad!!!

Had a very early dinner - Italian - lovely..... Back in our room, doing a couple of emails, and ready for bed by 7.45pm!!!!  We have an early start tomorrow (Monday), heading North, so hopefully will get a bit more sleep tonight, still on Melbourne time.